Cantonese Roast Goose

The siu mei shop's window centrepiece and the Cantonese roaster's highest seat: a whole goose, skin scalded tight, painted with the maltose glaze, dried overnight to the parchment shell, and roasted to the lacquered mahogany crackle over the five-spice-scented cavity. The duck's same doctrine at the goose's grander scale — and the home oven's own realistic path to the siu mei window's shine.
Quantities live in the recipe card.
The goose
The five-spice cavity salt
- the cavity's aromatics
The glaze and the finish
- the scalding and glazing liquor
- The scald and the tight skin: the goose poured over, kettle by kettle, with the just-boiled glazing liquor (maltose, vinegar and water) — the skin contracting to a drum-tight, slightly tacky finish. This scald is the crackle's own foundation: the skin's proteins set, and the overnight dry does the rest.
- The overnight dry: the scalded goose uncovered on a rack in the fridge, 12–24 hours, to the dry, parchment-stiff skin. The wet skin steams and the dry skin crackles — the siu mei doctrine's one law, and the step no oven can rescue if skipped.

Cantonese Roast Goose
Prep: 1 hour, plus overnight drying · Cook: 1 hour 30 minutes · Total: About 12 hours (mostly unattended) · Serves 6–8
Ingredients
The goose
- 1 whole goose, 4–4.5 kg, giblets removed, wing tips trimmed
- 1 tbsp (15 g) salt, for the cavity's cure
The five-spice cavity salt
- 2 tbsp (15 g) five-spice powder, 1 tbsp (15 g) salt, 1 tbsp (15 g) sugar
- 6 slices ginger, 2 spring onions, 1 star anise — the cavity's aromatics
The glaze and the finish
- 3 tbsp (45 g) maltose syrup (or honey), 3 tbsp (45 ml) hot water, 1 tbsp (15 ml) rice vinegar — the scalding and glazing liquor
- 1 tsp (5 ml) dark soy, whisked into the final glaze coat
Instructions
- The cavity's season and the seal — 10 minutes. The cavity rubbed with the five-spice salt, the ginger, spring onion and star anise tucked in, and the cavity closed with a skewer or the trussing needle's stitch — the sealed cavity steams the bird's inside while the skin roasts, and the open cavity the dry breast's own cause. Checkpoint — the goose's skin is dry and uniformly tacky to the touch, nowhere damp — a damp patch (usually the wing root's fold) blotted and air-dried another hour before the oven.
- The roast — 30 minutes at 200 °C, then 60 minutes at 160 °C, breast down to start. The goose on its rack over the drip tray, roasted 30 minutes at 200 °C to the skin's first tightening and colour, then the heat dropped to 160 °C and the goose turned breast-up for the remaining hour — the fat's steady rendering into the tray below (a half-cup ladled off at the turn if it climbs). Checkpoint — the goose is done when the thickest thigh reads 74 °C, the skin is a deep lacquered mahogany, and the drumstick's knuckle runs clear at the pierce — 15 minutes' rest, and the crackle's first test: the skin's audibly crisp push at the carving's first stroke.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Skin rubbery, no crackle | The overnight dry skipped, or the scald skipped | The full 12–24 hours' fridge dry — the one step without a shortcut |
| Breast dry before the thighs finish | The roast ran hot and fast | The two-stage roast: 200 °C to colour, then 160 °C to finish |
| Smoke filling the kitchen | The drip tray overfilled | Ladle the fat off at the turn; the tray needs 1 cm of clearance |
Storage, Make-Ahead & Variations
- The carved goose serves the day it roasts — the crackle's argument is same-day. The carved meat reheats gently under foil at 150 °C for 12 minutes; the skin's crackle does not return. The strained goose fat keeps 1 month refrigerated. - The same doctrine roasts the duck at the smaller scale (the 2 kg bird's timings: 20 minutes at 200 °C, 40 at 160 °C) — the siu mei shop's two windows, one architecture. The leftover carcass is the congee pot's and the noodle soup's own finest stock.